Method of making turned shoe assembly



Aug. 10, 1965 o. NEWMAN METHOD OF MAKING TURNED SHOE ASSEMBLY Filed Feb. 10, 1964 INVENTOR OTTO NEWMAN svi uumm ova-1 35 +gnebmhb, H.112.9

ATTORNEYS.

FIG. 6.

United States Patent 3,199,132 METHOD OF MAKING TURNED SHOE ASSEWLY Otto Newman, Hampton Bays, N.Y., assignor to Marx &

Newman Company, Inc., New York, N.Y., a corporation of New York Filed Feb. 10, 1964, Ser. No. 343,708

. 1 Claim. (Cl. 12142) This invention relates to turned shoes and, more particularly, to a novel turned shoe assembly of an upper and an inner sole and to a novel method of making such turned shoe assembly.

In present methods of making turned shoes, particularly of a high quality type, the several parts of the shoe are assembled while arranged in inside out relation on the last, this assemblybeing eflFected by hand sewing. These methods are necessarily expensive and time consuming. Yet, such methods are followed in the trade because no practical Way has yet been devised whereby high quality turned shoes may be made in any other way.

An object of the present invention is to provide a novel method of assembling an upper and an inner sole or sock lining of a turned shoe while both the upper and the inner sole or sock lining are turned inside out, and to effect this in a simplified economical manner.

To this end, in accordance with the present invention, an upper is formed in the usual manner and with the parts out and stitched together in accordance with the desired appearance of the finished shoe. This upper is then turned inside out and arranged with the inner sole or sock lining for inside out assembly. A pair of relatively long and narrow strips of relatively flexible material are then positioned along mating edges of the upper and the inner sole, with the upper and the inner sole being in somewhat spaced relation. One edge of each strip is then stitched to the upper and the opposite edge of each strip is then stitched to the inner sole or sock lining, or vice versa. These strips, which extend along mating side portions of the upper and the sock lining impart a sufficient degree of flexibility to the resultant assembly of the upper and the inner sole or sock lining so that the lining may then be turned right side out for lasting, and for cement ing of an outer sole to the inner sole.

When the assembly of the upper and the inner sole or sock lining is turned inside out, the relatively narrow strips interconnecting these two parts are completely concealed and only one of the two lines of stitching for each strip is visible in the finished shoe. Thus, in accordance with the present invention, the assembly of the upper sole to the inner sole and/ or sock lining is effected while the parts are turned inside out, so that the assembly, as lasted, may be positioned in normal right side out position on the last for the lasting operation and for cementing of the outer sole to the inner sole. Thus, the hitherto used very expensive and time consuming hand sewing process, with the assembly in inside out relation on the last, is eliminated and the cost of producing a high quality turned shoe is substantially reduced. The resultant shoe has the flexibility and lightness which are characteristic of shoes which are hand sewn while inside out on the last.

For an understanding of the principles of the invention, reference is made to the following description of a typical embodiment of the invention thereof as illustrated in the accompanying drawings. In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of an upper and a combined inner sole and sock lining arranged for inside out assembly;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the upper and the combined inner sole and sock lining of FIG. 1 as assembled to form an assembly and While still in the inside out condition;

3,l%,l32 Patented Aug. 16, 1965 FIG. 3 is a section taken along the line 3-6 of FIG. 2; 7

FIG. 4 is a view of the assembly of FIG. 2 as turned right sideout for lasting;

FIG. 5 is a sectional view taken on the line 55 of FIG. 4; and

FIG. 6 is a side elevational view of a completed shoe in accordance withthe present invention.

Referring to the drawings, an upper 1% is cut, in a conventional manner, from a suitable piece of flexible material such as, for example, flexible leather. In the particular embodiment selected for illustration, the upper is cut from two pieces 11 and 12 interconnected by a seam 13 (FIG. 4) which, on the interior of the upper, is overlain by a liner strip 14 adhesively securedto the upper. The upper margin of upper id is turned over as at 16 and stitched and cemented to form an attractive binder for the upper edge of the upper. In addition, the upper may have a heel liner 1'7 stitched or cemented or both to its inner surface, and a toe liner 1% may be cemented to its inner surface. The upper assembly is then marked for sewing, as indicated by lines 15, 15.

The other unit of the upper and inner sole assembly comprises an inner sole unit generally indicated at 2% as including an inner sole 2i and a sock liner 24. Inner sole 21 is divided into a main body portion 22 and a toe portion 23 and these parts are held in orientation with each other by the sock liner 24 which is cemented to both parts.

Upper 19 is turned inside out, as shown in FIG. 1, and the inner sole unit it? is inverted, likewise as shown in FIG. 1, so that inner sole 21 is uppermost and sock liner 24 is underneath, and the two parts are then arranged for inside out assembly. To make this inside out assembly, a pair of attachment strips 3d are provided. These attachment strips are made of a suitable flexible material such as, for example, flexible leather, flexible artificial leather, flexible plastic composition material, or the like. Preferably, strips 30 are relatively elongated rectangles, and are positioned each along a respective pair of mating side edge portions of upper ltl and inner sole unit 20. Thus, the upper edge of each strip 39 is aligned with a respective sewing mark on upper 1 0, and the strips 30 are then sewn to upper 14) by seam 31. The lower edges of strips 3d are bent outwardly so as to overlie the inner sole 21 and extend parallel to the side edge thereof, and these bent out portions of the strips 31 are then stitched to the inner sole unit 2% by a seam 32. The resultant assembly is indicated in FIG. 2 after completion of the sewing of strips 3d to upper It? and inner sole unit 20. It will be noted that a space exists between the lower edge of upper 10 and the inner sole 21, as best seen in FIG. 3, this space being indicated at 33. Thus, the strips 30 are so attached that there is some play between sole unit and upper Hi.

The completed assembly of upper 10 and sole unit 2%, in which the components are attached together by the strips 358, is indicated at in FIG. 2. This assembly is then turned right side out to the position shown in FIG. 4. Referring to FIGS. 4 and 5, it will be noted that the strips 39 are now concealed from view, with only the seams 31 being exposed. In this right side out position of the assembly 25, the strips extend downwardly along the respective sides of upper iii and are then curved upwardly and reentrantly where they are attached to the outer edges of the inner sole unit 29. The assembly 25, as shown in FIG. 4, may then be lasted in the usual manner and an outer sole 35 may be cemented to the inner sole 21. A suitable heel 36 may be attached'to the completed shoe 37, shown in FIG. 6, and this attachment may be eflected in any desired manner.

The unique feature of novelty of the invention is the method of shoe construction involving the sewing of the upper and the inner sole unit While these are inside out or inverted,- and'this'is accomplished by sewing the strips 30, of flexible material, to both the upper and to the inner sole. This permits the shoe upper and the inner sole unit to be attached to each other While inside out and then turned right side out'before lasting While imparting to the finished shoe 37 a flexibility and lightness similar to that achieved by shoes which are hand sewn While inside out on the last.

While a specific embodiment of the invention has been shown and described in detail to illustrate the application of the principles of the invention, it will be understood that the invention may be embodied otherwise Without departing from such principles.

What is claimed is:

A method of manufacturing a turned shoe inner and outer sole and upper assembly, said method comprising the steps of cutting and sewing an upper, cutting an inner sole, arranging said upper and said inner sole for inside out assembly with the lower edge of said upper in juxtaposition with the outer edge of said inner sole, positioning a pair of elongated strips of flexible material each along a respective pair of mating side lower edge and outer edge portions of said upper and said inner sole, stitching References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,123,245 1/15 Chesbrough 3619.1 1,502,559 7/24 Giblin 3617.1 1,974,580 9/34 Mondl 36-19 2,065,058 12/36 De Liso 36-18 2,407,352 9/46 Stritter 12142 2,474,558 6/49 Tholson 12-142 2,845,724 8/58 Spaulding 36-13 2,946,070 7/60 Spaulding 12142 FOREIGN PATENTS 570,340 7/ 45 Great Britain.

JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

FRANK I. COHEN, Examiner. 

